It’s been awhile since I posted anything, let alone something about the Subie. I think it’s about time I kick it in the butt and get it done.
Yesterday while I was prepping the barbeque for some boneless ribs, I decided I’d try something with the Subaru. I wanted to know if it was going to run if I grounded the fuel pump. For the uninitiated, the way Subaru runs things through the ECU is it runs grounds out to many of the parts so it will work. The ECU activates the ground to get it to work. In this case, the ground goes out to the fuel pump. What I did is just directly connect the wire to ground so it runs all the time. I originally thought I was going to have to connect it through a relay, but I had an epiphany yesterday. The key-on does this automatically for me by providing power. When the key is off, the pump won’t run because it doesn’t have any power going to it. So, I grounded the pump, turned the key to the on position, fuel pump kicked on, turned it over to start and it fired right up.
I wasn’t sure if it was going to run this way if I tried to rev it up. I had tried to do this before when the ECU was running the fuel pump. This time it did. While I was able to rev it up a little bit, it was running on four or maybe five of the six cylinders. I decided I would change out the plugs and see if it helps any. This morning I went down to AutoZone and picked up some NGK 7092 plugs for it and installed them. While it is running a bit better, I’m not sure it helped the dead cylinders much. I need to get the exhaust done on it to see if the back pressure helps any. When you rev the engine up and drop the throttle back to zero, it sometimes backfires. I don’t really like that much at all. We’ll have to see where this leads us and what I’ll have to do to get it running like it should be.
Something I’d done a couple of weeks ago was create O2 extensions. This makes it easier to route the wiring so it doesn’t rub up against the axle shaft and create issues. The O2 wiring is just long enough without the extensions, but adding another 10″ or so to them makes it a lot easier to deal with.
The other thing I checked today was while I had it running, I put the DMM to the alternator to discover it isn’t putting out any juice to the battery. Looking further at the wiring, I’m not seeing as how the alternator is attached to the battery at all. I believe the output wire on the Alternator should be going directly to the battery, but there’s nothing there which I can see. I think I’ll re-run the main power lead coming off of the alternator and see if it then is charging the battery.
Previously I had welded a bracket up which mounted the VW reservoir ball and the charcoal canister.
While working on the spark plugs, I removed the canister to get some more room. The way I designed it was to just create a “V” out of two pieces of flat metal and welded them at the correct angle so as to capture the canister through an interference fit.
This worked out pretty well, but the two nipples for the vacuum lines pointed the wrong way. After I had pulled it off, I decided I was going to mount it on the back side of the “V”, thus effectively turning the canister around so the nipples would be facing towards the engine and not away.
This makes the routing of the vacuum lines that much easier. I had to unbolt the horn from its happy home in order to do it, but the canister now sits happily in its new location. I’ll have to make a small spacer in order to mount the horn, but it shouldn’t be an issue.
I hope this entry finds you well. I’m hoping you all found it at least readable and maybe a little interesting. If not, I’ll try harder next time.
Until next time … Be Well.