Engine Installed

While my son was here over the weekend, we were pretty much able to get the engine installed all the way. The intake is now on and all the vacuum lines hooked up (or awaiting their home). The next big step is getting the radiator in, which is being quite a chore. We also started looking at the wiring.

For the radiator, I took the approach I’ve seen elsewhere, but cutting the core support at the top, then inserting 1″ angle iron in its place. This allows for a removable portion of the core support which allows for the radiator to go into and out of the engine bay with the engine in … at least that’s how the theory goes.


Here is how the core support looked with the piece in there (note: I’d already cut it out, but wanted to show where it’d be).


Here it is with it cut out. I angled the cut to allow more clearance for the radiator, yet not interfere with the support of the headlight. I was able to cut a piece of the angle iron to fit. I then drilled holes down through the core support and from the front back, right next to where the headlight will go in. I then marked where the holes would go on the angle iron and drilled them out with the drill press. I took this tap, which is an M6x1.0 (I believe) to create threads in the angle iron. This worked out really well.


There is a reason you keep extra fasteners around after you tear something apart. You’ll find you’ll always need something. Today was no different. I was able to find several bolts which worked out perfectly for my needs.


I then bolted the angle iron into place where the core support used to be.



It was amazing the amount of support bolting this into place makes. It firmed up the entire assembly, to include where the headlights go. It really amazed me.

We are still going to have to do some work getting the radiator into place. There are a couple of things to still work out. One of those is the radiator is still too close to the engine on the passenger side. The upper radiator connection sits precariously close to the engine. I’m not sure how we are going to get the hose to fit the upper connection and over to the engine. The lower connection will not be an issue. I’ll have to get some adapters to go from the 1.25″ on the radiator to the 1.5″ connection on the engine. I’ll need to get them for both the top and the bottom.

As it stands, things are coming together. There is still a ton of work to be done. We are still wondering where we are going to mount the EG33 ECU in the car. I have an idea we are going to gut the A/C core out of it’s box and mount it in there. I will then put some kind of barrier between the ECU and the where the air flow occurs inside the box. He won’t have A/C, but he’ll still have heat. The heat still uses this portion of the HVAC to traverse to the different parts of the vehicle. It’s all a trade off. Hopefully we won’t have any issues making happen.

Resistor Pack for Fan Control

So everyone doesn’t believe I’m just the kind of guy who works on Subarus (believe me, I’m a Chevy guy!), I had to do a small amount of work on my Silverado today.

My 06 Silvy has an auto-temp climate control console (RPO: CJ2) in it. This is a pretty nice feature to have, but there is one downside which many people with this feature have found. When the resistor pack goes bad, the fan cuts to high and will continue to run even when the engine is shut off and the key is out of the ignition! What a PITB! It takes you forever to find the underhood fuse to shut the blower fan off. It wasn’t too bad … this time. That’s right. I’ve rode this bull before about a year and a half ago.

At least this time I didn’t have to solder wires together like I did the last time. Mind you, the first resistor pack lasted about eight years. The second only the year and a half. It really isn’t hard to change out the resistor pack, though. You just pull three small screws out of the blower fan shroud which covers and quiets the fan, then pull two small screws out of the resistor pack to remove it. If you haven’t done this before, you have to clip the harness to pull the old resistor pack out, then you have to attach a new wire which comes with the new resistor pack to provide the power throughput for the fan. Pretty simple really, made easier if its been replaced once already.

Here’s what the resistor pack and wiring looks like fresh out of the box: