Pending Restart

It’s been awhile since I posted anything, let alone something about the Subie. I think it’s about time I kick it in the butt and get it done.

Yesterday while I was prepping the barbeque for some boneless ribs, I decided I’d try something with the Subaru. I wanted to know if it was going to run if I grounded the fuel pump. For the uninitiated, the way Subaru runs things through the ECU is it runs grounds out to many of the parts so it will work. The ECU activates the ground to get it to work. In this case, the ground goes out to the fuel pump. What I did is just directly connect the wire to ground so it runs all the time. I originally thought I was going to have to connect it through a relay, but I had an epiphany yesterday. The key-on does this automatically for me by providing power. When the key is off, the pump won’t run because it doesn’t have any power going to it. So, I grounded the pump, turned the key to the on position, fuel pump kicked on, turned it over to start and it fired right up.

I wasn’t sure if it was going to run this way if I tried to rev it up. I had tried to do this before when the ECU was running the fuel pump. This time it did. While I was able to rev it up a little bit, it was running on four or maybe five of the six cylinders. I decided I would change out the plugs and see if it helps any. This morning I went down to AutoZone and picked up some NGK 7092 plugs for it and installed them. While it is running a bit better, I’m not sure it helped the dead cylinders much. I need to get the exhaust done on it to see if the back pressure helps any. When you rev the engine up and drop the throttle back to zero, it sometimes backfires. I don’t really like that much at all. We’ll have to see where this leads us and what I’ll have to do to get it running like it should be.

Something I’d done a couple of weeks ago was create O2 extensions. This makes it easier to route the wiring so it doesn’t rub up against the axle shaft and create issues. The O2 wiring is just long enough without the extensions, but adding another 10″ or so to them makes it a lot easier to deal with.

The other thing I checked today was while I had it running, I put the DMM to the alternator to discover it isn’t putting out any juice to the battery. Looking further at the wiring, I’m not seeing as how the alternator is attached to the battery at all. I believe the output wire on the Alternator should be going directly to the battery, but there’s nothing there which I can see. I think I’ll re-run the main power lead coming off of the alternator and see if it then is charging the battery.

Previously I had welded a bracket up which mounted the VW reservoir ball and the charcoal canister.

While working on the spark plugs, I removed the canister to get some more room. The way I designed it was to just create a “V” out of two pieces of flat metal and welded them at the correct angle so as to capture the canister through an interference fit.

This worked out pretty well, but the two nipples for the vacuum lines pointed the wrong way. After I had pulled it off, I decided I was going to mount it on the back side of the “V”, thus effectively turning the canister around so the nipples would be facing towards the engine and not away.

This makes the routing of the vacuum lines that much easier. I had to unbolt the horn from its happy home in order to do it, but the canister now sits happily in its new location. I’ll have to make a small spacer in order to mount the horn, but it shouldn’t be an issue.

I hope this entry finds you well. I’m hoping you all found it at least readable and maybe a little interesting. If not, I’ll try harder next time.

Until next time … Be Well.

Relocate and Weld

I was able to get a couple more things done on the Subie today. I moved the battery to the trunk (though it’s not installed yet) and moved the Jetta ball from where the A/C compressor is supposed to be to where the battery was at.

To start with I disconnected the battery and moved it to the trunk … wow, that’s surprising :o) As I disconnected the negative lead, I did hear one of the relays click off, which to me tells me the battery is holding a charge (nothing really discharging it). I put it in the trunk, but I’m unsure which side of the vehicle I’m actually going to mount it on … more on that later.

With the battery moved, I took the bolt out of the mount for the Jetta ball. Why do I call it a Jetta ball? Really no clue, other than you can find it in a Jetta and sounds better than a Purge Reservoir or something else. Anyway, it’s in the shape of a ball, so there you go. Once removed I started looking at where it could go and how it was going to fit along with the charcoal canister at the typical battery location. Having put all the work I did into the mount in the first place, I didn’t want to waste the effort.

After looking at where it would be at, I decided I’d put a strip of angle iron down along where the battery mount is at. In order to do this I’d need to lengthen the original mounting tab which I’d drilled the hole through to tighten on a bolt. While it would have probably been cleaner to just cut what was on there away and weld a new piece of metal onto, butt welding a small piece of the same size metal onto the other piece saved me some metal in the end. I don’t have very much of the flat stock left (down to about 18″ now) and I didn’t want to make another trip to the store to purchase more, so I’m trying to be frugal with what I have. Since I have plenty of flux core welding wire (picked up a new roll a couple of weeks ago at Harbor Freight), welding seemed like the best route to go. Definitely not the prettiest route, but I went with it anyway. I measured what I needed to in order to get the right height on the Jetta ball once it was in place. I calculated I’d need about 2 1/2″, so I measured twice, cut once, and welded. I then figured out the length of angle iron I need and cut that out. Measured exactly where I’d want the Jetta ball to end up, marked the angle iron, cleaned both pieces of metal up and welded things together. I think the end product turned out pretty good.

Here’s where the ball will reside when it’s welded into place in the battery space.

To mount the charcoal canister I plan on taking two pieces of flat stock and welding then in a “V” shape onto the angle iron, to allow the canister to sit between the Jetta ball and the engine. The V shape will be just the right size to friction fit the canister down into it. It should work out pretty well in the end. I’ll create a new blog note when the time comes to cover it. I’ve already purchased the hoses and the T-pipe adapter so I can run the coolant lines when I get this completely installed.

I started laying out the cables for the battery. I wanted to show you the cabling and how good they are. I bought a relocation kit from a business on eBay. The company name on eBay is powderperform. As of this blog entry they have a 100% positive feedback with nearly 2400 entries. I mention this because of how pleased I am with what I received. What I was sent was EXACTLY what was on the eBay page I purchased from. I couldn’t ask for a better product.

The product itself was advertised as a Battery Relocation Kit, 16′ long, 2AWG Welding Cable. I have to say, it is exactly that. Here is a comparison of the cable sizes between the stock negative cable which goes from the battery to the engine and the welding cable which will be replacing it.

As you can see, the physical size of the cable is nearly identical. The huge difference comes from how the cable itself is fabricated. When you look directly at the end of the cable, you can tell what I’m talking about.

The core is 100% copper made of fine strands. I couldn’t tell you what the count of the strands are, but can tell you there’s plenty of them. This is great for two reasons. My understanding of how electricity flows in wiring is on the outside of it (this may be wrong, but I’m going with it). With as many strands as this has, this stuff will flow electrons like nobody’s business! The other thing is, all of the strands make this wiring very pliable. Playing with the stock wiring, it is very stiff. This stuff is going to go where ever I want it and won’t put up a fuss doing so. The other ends of the cables are just as good as the wiring itself.

The ends of the cables are professional grade. They look really good. The other thing you can see in the top first image is the ends which come with it, plus shrink wrap to finish them off. The idea here is to get the length cut exactly as you want them, trim back the sheathing, fill the terminator up with solder, melt it down, and stuff the end of the cable into the hot solder to get it to stay put and be well connected. You want to ensure you don’t foget to slide the heatshrink on the cable before you put the end on it, or you’re most likely just going to have to do without. I’ll blog about it when it’s all together so you can see the finished product.

Not everything done today I wanted to get done, but progress is progress. I still need to figure out where/how I’m going to run the positive cable from the back end of the Subie, as well as which side I’m going to put the battery on for sure. The cable seems like it might be about a foot too short to put on the passenger side, so it may end up on the driver’s side. I know this goes against conventional wisdom, but that’s the way the ball bounces when you need to get stuff done.

While you are contemplating your next great build, all I have to say to you is … Be well.

Cut to the Quick

Over the weekend I purchased some new hoses for the cooling system. I then had to order some adapters so it would fit on both sides of the equation. The engine side is 1.5″ and the radiator is 1.25″. I bought two adapters so I could fit the 1.5″ ID hoses onto the radiator. It looks as though it’s going to work, but we’ll see once I get coolant into the engine. I still have to relocate the reservoir ball before I can get the rest hooked up, though. Argh … I’m ahead of myself!

The first thing I did was to put the radiator in place. Then I figured out the basic shape of the hose I’d need to do the job. I then drew a rough shape on a piece of card stock. I then started cutting them down until I got what I wanted for length and basic shape. They turned out like this:

I measured both ends (engine side and radiator side) which I’d need to connect to and wrote the information on the cut pieces of card stock. After I was satisfied with what I had, I took the templates to Autozone to see if I could find something which would work. This is what I came up with.

Upper radiator hose:

Lower radiator hose:

(Yah, cut me some slack … I’d already cut it before I realized I hadn’t taken a picture yet :o)

I told you I had to put an adapter into the radiator side of each hose. Here’s what it looks like with it inside the hose. I hope it will work out when all is said and done … only time will tell if it will work well or not.

Both of them worked out okay, I think. I cut them to fit at the proper points and here is what they look like installed.

Like I said before, I still need to do some relocation of the reservoir. That’s going to be a chore in and of itself. I should get the cables to move the battery later this week and I’ll get it done. As always, I’ll write about it as time allows and things progress. Until then, be well.

Way Too Cool

My son and I had been working on his cooling system (see: Radiation Overload) attempting to get the radiator mounted into the radiator core. At first we were going to put it behind the front brace (the angle iron we affixed in place of the top core support portion). We figured out a little bit later into the build we wouldn’t be able to do this because the radiator would be sitting too close to the engine for the hoses to get run correctly. To deal with this, we decided to place the radiator in front of the angle iron. This allows us to put the electric fans between the radiator and the engine, as well as getting the hoses an easier run between the two.

It’s hard to tell in the following pictures, but there is now a ton of room between the engine and the fans. I’ve already mounted the fans on the radiator, which should work just fine.

While the son was here over Christmas break, I also made the tabs and welded them to the bottom core support. While it’s not a perfect job, the overall effort turned out well. The tabs are solid and support the radiator without an issue.

Here’s what the radiator looks like with the fans attached to it.

I had stated previously I was tapping the angle iron which is being used for the upper core support and had broken the tap trying to make it happen. I went to Lowe’s this morning and picked up a new 1/4-20 tap. This one had the correct drill bit with it (I couldn’t find the tap by itself) so I worked the holes a little bit with the drill, then ran the tap through them which worked rather nicely. Previously I had bought some new rubber snubbers which I was able to mount directly into the mounting tab on top of the radiator. I used some stainless 1/4-20 allen head bolts with flat washers to run through the angle iron. Here’s what the upper part looks like with all of it together.

My son and I mocked up the front end prior to his leaving. We needed to trim up the bumper to allow it to fit. Here’s what the whole shooting match looks like together.

I had previously created a bracket and placed the coolant reservoir in where the A/C compressor used to be on the engine. It was a great fit … unfortunately it isn’t going to work. Even with the extra clearance the JDM hood provides, the VW ball sits about a 1/2″ too high which means it’s going to have to move. I thought I would include a pic of what it looks like installed so you can see part of my handywork.

The alternative we are going to go for is purchasing a battery relocation kit to move the battery to the trunk. This will give us room to put the reservoir and the charcoal canister in its place and low enough so they are both out of the road. Yes, that’ll mean I’ll have to create another bracket or modify this one so it will hold the ball, but so is the life of fabrication. I know Nik Blackhurst from Bad Obsession Motorsport knows this all too well. I just wish I had a smidge of his talents!

Tunes for the Truck

My ’06 Silverado had a Bose sound system in it. With the radio on, it sounded great. There were two huge issues with it, though: 1) the CD player would skip tracks/songs/etc, which was not acceptable; 2) you couldn’t stream anything to it. With that in mind, the wife told me I could get a new head unit for it for my birthday (we won’t discuss how old I am now, lol).

I went online at Crutchfield. I have discovered they provide a lot of great equipment at reasonable prices (no, not the cheapest prices), great attachment products (to ensure the head unit will work with your vehicle), and provide awesome instructions and lifetime product support. I’ve gone back to them twice now and I’ve not been disappointed either time. With Crutchfield, you can plug your vehicle into their website, select the options you want, then boil down your selection to what you’d like and what you can afford. There is a huge selection, though they deal with what seems like just a few different brands … some of them which I’ve never heard of. I tend to stay with brands I know, like Sony, Kenwood, Pioneer, JVC, etc. You can find cheaper brands on their website, but I’m not as much of a stereophile to know if some of these “off brands” are good or bad. I’d rather pay a few dollars more now and not worry about it later. My selection of headunit was no different this time. I selected a Kenwood DDX573BH, which for my needs turned out to be a great choice. I also got their installation kit, plus the little box which allows you to retain the steering wheel controls, the Bose sound system, and the door chime since GM runs their chime through the stereo system.

The Kenwood had the features I was looking for at a price point I could deal with. It has Bluetooth, HD radio, and a USB port. It will let me use the stereo to do hands free calling, which is awesome … especially since I live near DC where it’s mandatory to use. I don’t go into the District very often, but when I do, I don’t want to get a ticket for something stupid like using my phone.

Installation was rather easy for the most part. I took took the “stuff” out of the packaging and made all the connections which would go between the head unit wiring and the connectors which would attach to my trucks wiring. These sure make things a lot easier than when I was a teenager trying to install a basic head unit into my 72 Chevelle! I used heat shrink on the connections to ensure they’d stay together for a long time to come. I really hate taking a dash back apart to fix something which has worked its way loose. Here’s what most of it looked like when I was putting it together:

Yes my desk was a mess as I was putting this all together! Here’s what the old head unit looked like when it was still in the truck:

I don’t have a picture of it, but once the old head unit was removed (nothing more than pulling the outer facing off the dash, removing three screws, and disconnecting the wiring … really simple), there was a small bit of plastic I needed to remove at the back of the orifice. I grabbed my handy dandy hacksaw blade and went to work. When I got that as cut as I could, I grabbed a pair of Vice Grips and yanked out what wasn’t needed. Took a few minutes as I didn’t want to damage anything I didn’t need to. The new stereo fit right in. All of the connections I’d done the night before worked as advertised and the new head unit was in business. Here’s what it looks like installed:

It sounds great and I’m very happy with it.

One thing I forgot to do which the instructions do warn you about, is pulling any CDs out of the old head unit before you unplug it from your system. Uh … whoops! Yah, I forgot to pull my Van Halen CD out. I realized this after getting the new system about half way installed, but at that point, there was no turning back.

To fix my conundrum, I went onto the trusty Interwebz and did some research. While I didn’t find anything directly relating to this, I put the noggin to use and did some thinking. I figured if I could just apply power to the head unit, I could probably get it to eject the disk. I found this diagram, which is for some other GM product, but it sure looked like what my plug looked like:

And here was the back of my old head unit:

With the diagram on my monitor, I found where the Ground and Positive Voltage pins were located. Inside the socket on the head unit, while you cannot see it in the image, all of the pins are marked with the proper pin numbers and row letters. It’s a good thing, too, because the diagram above is backwards to it because it’s actually for the plug, not the socket.

With that, I grabbed a 12vdc battery I keep around for just such occasions (for reference, it’s an old battery out of my garage door opener used for when the power goes out … it still holds a charge, so works great for powering automotive things). I also grabbed some leads which have alligator clips on both ends. I attached the proper leads to the correct pins and OH MY GOODNESS, I heard the CD changer inside make some noises. I looked at the front and pressed the eject button. One CD, freshly ejected. Like butter from a cow … wait … milk/cream comes from the cow … you have to make butter … I digress.

One last parting shot here … something I didn’t mention … make sure you put the alligator clips on the right pins … I put them backwards and superheated one of the two leads, which proceeded to melt in two, rapidly. Only took about 3 seconds and it was like butter. Oh, back to that … sorry. Just ensure you put the right leads in the right place and you’re golden. It wasn’t hard to figure out, nor to accomplish. Just one more thing and now I can play my CDs again. But I can also stream iHeart Radio. Or talk hands free. Or play a DVD … or … or …

Isn’t technology great? :o)

(PS: I would have said “Ain’t” in the last sentence, but the wife would shoot me.)

Radiation Overload

The son and I did a little work on his car today. I’m still fed up with it not starting, but I was able to verify all of the fuses are in good shape, to include the fusible link. I need to look in a different direction to figure out why it isn’t starting. I still think there are a ton of grounds which I need to add into different areas, then it will probably run like a big dog and I’ll be ready to kick it out of the garage.

Something else we worked on today was getting the radiator put into the front end. We decided to go a little bit different route than we were before. Here’s a picture of the front end as it sits right now:

You’ll notice a big chunk taken out of the front bumper support. The reason for this is we decided we are going to locate the radiator to the front of the piece of angle iron. This will push the radiator forward enough we’ll be able to fit the fans in behind it with room to spare. This will leave them in the puller mode instead of pusher fans. We’ll have to trim the front bumper and the grill won’t fit without heavy modification, but it will work better in the long run. One of the main things it will do is give me more space to put the top radiator hose in place. Before deciding to move it forward, the upper radiator outlet was almost touching the cam belt cover. Where it will be at now will give use plenty of room.

The plan with it is to weld a piece of angle iron (just visible at the top left side of the image) onto the bumper support. This will tie the two sides of the bumper support together while giving us the room we need to make it work. Next, I’ll be welding two tabs along the bottom of the core support where the two shiney spots are at. You can see the metal tabs just below and to the left of the gloves at the top center of the image. After the tabs are welded into place, I’ll need to mark and drill holes in them so I can place the locating pins in the bottom of the radiator into them. I want to get some rubber pieces for the top, but I plan on cutting down the tabs on the top of the radiator, drilling them, then bolting it to the top piece of angle iron. This should leave the radiator very secure and in good shape.

One last thing to look at in the image. If you look really close you’ll see a round object with a blue cap on it. This is the recovery tank for the car. It’s out of some type of VW … a Jetta, IIRC. Where it’s sitting at is where we are going to mount it. It will fit just right in there where the A/C compressor was supposed to be at. I think it will work just awesomely there. I’ll be able to create a bracket to hang it off of right there without too much of an issue. We’ll have to get a T to put into the heater hose line, run hose from the bottom of it back to the heater hose, plus install a small line from the radiator to the small line on the recovery tank. The only prerequisite with the recovery tank is it needs to be higher than the rest of the cooling system. This will make a good home for it.

While the Impreza still isn’t running, it is a little bit closer. I’m have hopes things will continue to progress. I think I can get the welding out of the road tomorrow, at least for the cooling system portion of the build. Things are a little bit closer and I’m happy with the progress.

Sphincter says “What?”

I’m still working the issues, but no joy. I am able to get the Impreza to crank, but there’s no life in the engine. I can hear the fuel pump kick in. There is fuel in the tank. I haven’t checked the pressure at the fuel rail, but I’m assuming there is pressure there. There is power to the injectors (verified). I don’t think the ECU is getting a signal to fire anything. The plugs are dry. I did pull one out and cranked the engine. I didn’t see any fire at the plug, so I’m assuming there’s nothing there. The engine started prior to pulling it. This was on ether, as the fuel pump in the SVX wasn’t working. Since it was running on ether, it would mean the crank/cam sensors should be working providing input to the ECU and spark at the spark plugs. Still, I’ll be checking the crank/cam sensors as they are just hall effect sensors and should provide some type of electrical movement as the field is broken across them.

I’m going to try and get the DLC connector for the ECU hooked back up, or at least get wires ran for it so I can attach my code reader. This should (hopefully) give me some insight into what might or might not be happening in the ECU. I have heard rumor, though, that these Subarus didn’t have OBDI, but rather just the Subaru brand of engine management. I guess I’ll have to play with it and see if I can figure something out.

Wouldn’t you know it … I looked on Craig’s List today. Found an EJ22 for $450 out of a 96 Impreza with supposedly low miles … If I had only known …

Engine Installed

While my son was here over the weekend, we were pretty much able to get the engine installed all the way. The intake is now on and all the vacuum lines hooked up (or awaiting their home). The next big step is getting the radiator in, which is being quite a chore. We also started looking at the wiring.

For the radiator, I took the approach I’ve seen elsewhere, but cutting the core support at the top, then inserting 1″ angle iron in its place. This allows for a removable portion of the core support which allows for the radiator to go into and out of the engine bay with the engine in … at least that’s how the theory goes.


Here is how the core support looked with the piece in there (note: I’d already cut it out, but wanted to show where it’d be).


Here it is with it cut out. I angled the cut to allow more clearance for the radiator, yet not interfere with the support of the headlight. I was able to cut a piece of the angle iron to fit. I then drilled holes down through the core support and from the front back, right next to where the headlight will go in. I then marked where the holes would go on the angle iron and drilled them out with the drill press. I took this tap, which is an M6x1.0 (I believe) to create threads in the angle iron. This worked out really well.


There is a reason you keep extra fasteners around after you tear something apart. You’ll find you’ll always need something. Today was no different. I was able to find several bolts which worked out perfectly for my needs.


I then bolted the angle iron into place where the core support used to be.



It was amazing the amount of support bolting this into place makes. It firmed up the entire assembly, to include where the headlights go. It really amazed me.

We are still going to have to do some work getting the radiator into place. There are a couple of things to still work out. One of those is the radiator is still too close to the engine on the passenger side. The upper radiator connection sits precariously close to the engine. I’m not sure how we are going to get the hose to fit the upper connection and over to the engine. The lower connection will not be an issue. I’ll have to get some adapters to go from the 1.25″ on the radiator to the 1.5″ connection on the engine. I’ll need to get them for both the top and the bottom.

As it stands, things are coming together. There is still a ton of work to be done. We are still wondering where we are going to mount the EG33 ECU in the car. I have an idea we are going to gut the A/C core out of it’s box and mount it in there. I will then put some kind of barrier between the ECU and the where the air flow occurs inside the box. He won’t have A/C, but he’ll still have heat. The heat still uses this portion of the HVAC to traverse to the different parts of the vehicle. It’s all a trade off. Hopefully we won’t have any issues making happen.

Krazy Glue and You

I’m in the process of getting the top part of the intake manifold together on the EG33 so I can bolt it down and have that part done on it. It’s quite a chore with all of the vacuum lines they ran on the engine. Really, I guess there weren’t that many lines, but there are a few. My son was able to find this vacuum chart which helped a whole bunch. I had most of the lines figured out, but some I had the wrong idea for, so was able to adjust fire and figure some stuff out.received9510154771542021062

There were a couple of things I had to buy to put it together right. One of the things was the vacuum check valve (#8 one-way valve). I bought one of those cheap Dorman products you see in the “Help!” section of most of the popular parts chains. Paid $5 for it and it was worthless. I didn’t want to go buy another one as it would probably have the same issue. I didn’t want to purchase something off of Amazon and figure out if it was going to work or not (size wise), then it would take at least two days to get here even using Prime. I started wondering what I could use instead. Then it came to me. My daughter’s fish tank has check valves on the air lines going into the tank. This is used to keep the water from syphoning out of the tank and back down the air lines. I took one of hers out and tested it under vacuum (yah, I sucked on it). It held the vacuum like nobody’s business. I put her air lines back together and was on my way to Walmart. I picked two of them up for less than what it cost me for non-usable one from the parts store.

In the process of pulling the manifold off, I broke the Purge Control Solenoid Valve (#10). One of the nipples broke off of it because the lines are so stinking hard, things got broke. I looked around on the EJ22 to see if there was another one like it, but couldn’t find it (I believe it was bolted to the fender and the son removed it … never to be found again). I then looked online for a replacement I could buy. Yah, right. $110 for one. I again started thinking about how I could fix it. I figured out I could probably put a new nipple on there if I did it correctly. I found a butt adapter for the vacuum lines and cut one half off so there was a rather large flat portion I could use (large relative to the nipple itself). I then took the solenoid to my bench grinder and gently shaved off where the old one was broken from, making it very flat. I picked up a tube of Krazy Glue from the store and applied it to the nipple. Five seconds later it was bonded to the solenoid. Seems air tight as well. I’ll trade $2 for a tube of Krazy Glue any day of the week instead of dropping $110 on a new one. Krazy Glue FTW!


Because we have to chop part of the core support out, I went down and bought some angle iron the other day. Cost $30 for a 20’x1″ length which they cut in half. I’m going to use this to rebuild the core support after we chop it. It will also support the radiator at the top. The bottom is held in by the two grommets used for the original radiator. We drilled a hole in the core support, then used a step drill to cut a much bigger hole. These bigger holes will support the old grommets and the radiator in just the right spot. I was really impressed with how the step bits I bought from Harbor Freight did, and the wonderful job of cutting the holes. I highly recommend them as a cheap but effective way to get the job done.

Since we will no longer have the core support across the top of the radiator, there will also no longer be a latch we can use. My son bought these instead.


These are JDM, direct from Japan. Hood pin latches with locks in carbon fiber. I’ll have to cut some holes for them, then recess the lips so these will sit flush with the hood instead of sitting on top of them. They’d work if on top, but it would be ugly as sin. Cutting them flush will look a lot better. He said these were relatively cheap and there are better models. Even so, these should turn out okay as long as I can get them installed easily.

These will probably be some of the last things to get installed. Plenty other work ahead of them … like getting the engine running! I gotta get the engine back together first, like getting the vacuum lines completely sorted. There’s only a little bit more in that department, then I can slam the top part of the intake manifold back onto the engine and call it a day. Still lots to do. It’s a lot easier when my son is here to keep me motivated. If I’ve found nothing else in doing this project, it’s that I have an awesome son who I can work with. He even listens … that’s something I’d never seen before :o)